| | Thrillist Philadelphia Tuesday September 1, 2009 Marigold Kitchen
501 S 45th St, at Larchwood; West Philadelphia; 215.222.3699
No matter how far man travels to hone his craft part of him always longs to return home, to flaunt his success to those who doubted him, and see if it'll get him laid. Coming home to flash his...culinary expertise, Robert Halpern, with Marigold Kitchen.
A Villanova native, Halpern spent the past decade traveling the States to study various culinary styles -- from natural foods, to locally-sourced seafood, to molecular gastronomy -- and's now back in the area to take the reins at Marigold, a cozy 46-seat, white tablecloth BYO spread over two floors of a converted Victorian brownstone, where he'll implement his menu, artfully presented with "an element of surprise", so expect plenty of...Phosphorus? The first of two suggested courses includes a selection of smaller dishes like slow-braised pork belly w/ creamy grits, pickled fennel & spicy caramel froth; Late Summer Cobb salad w/ Point Reyes Blue Cheese, avocado, quail egg & bacon toffee; and pan-fried sweetbreads w/ cauliflower-almond puree, Pedro Jimenez Sherry jus & carrot cylinders, who mercilessly mock the pocket protector-sporting square carrots. Entrée time brings options like ribeye w/ feijoada beans, herbed chimichurri, & collard greens; Pork, Beans & Beer, w/ white bean puree, prosciutto crisps & Guinness foam; and pan-seared diver scallops w/ black truffle & pineapple essence, every issue of which has Carmen Miranda and Bob Dole on the cover.
Marigold also offers a nine-course tasting menu, with dishes changing every month; September's lineup includes a deconstructed piña colada (coconut custard, dark rum glaze, pineapple powder), grouper over short rib hash, Thai beef jerky -- which is all you've got left, cause those girls got fat, anyway.
Opening tomorrow night at 5:30 -- and every Tues-Sun thereafter -- click here to check out the full menu at MarigoldKitchenBYOB.com
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